Our Family’s First Christmas in Morocco

My girls emphatically insist on seeing gaudy, kilowatt-sucking, elaborate red-and-white, Rudolph, Frosty and Santa-inspired holiday decorations at the same time as everyone else in the United States – the day after Halloween. It doesn’t matter that they have never lived in the US. And, it doesn’t matter that Halloween hasn’t exactly been a “traditional” holiday anywhere we have lived, whether that was in Central or West Africa or, these days, Morocco. Somehow, between social media and the cartoons on television, my kids want their holiday decorations despite all the work my husband and I have spent entertaining them over the last decade or more. Lucky for them, thanks to the savvy of global commercialization, come the first of November, Moroccan stores and businesses have started to embrace the Christmas hype.

These days, grocery stores in Rabat are filled with rows and rows of boxed chocolates, as far as my weary eyes can see: gargantuan plastic containers of Christmas-themed M&M’s, fancy European-style chocolates, aisles overflowing with bright tinsel, some questionable holiday decorations, oversized adult Santa costumes that somehow look off, sad little Charlie Brown-styled Christmas trees, massive amount of garlands and a dizzying supply of ornamental balls. All of this makes my children happy.

I was surprised to find advent calendars (okay, they were Minion-themed, but who cares) for 30 Moroccan Dirham ($3) each!

Christmas Markets in Morocco

The holiday season in Rabat has a nice international flair. There are Christmas bazaars held outside in gorgeous garden settings where you can do your shopping for the entire year! Many of them benefit worthy non-profit causes in the city and throughout Morocco. The products on display are often beautifully crafted and excellent quality for a reasonable price. Plus, the festive atmosphere is always a huge pull. You can’t beat wandering around a garden Christmas market in sunny, 73-degree weather.

At home, we pull out the Christmas music play lists. Teeny-bop holiday songs for my girls. Mariah Carey for my husband. We throw on the Santa hats. Even the cat now has his own. We decorate every corner of our house as my kids make sure every door has a jingle bell or a flowy garland on it. Finally, our home is essentially one large sparkly Christmas gift ready to be unwrapped.

Christmas Traditions

My husband usually pulls out his grandmother’s secret Belgian waffle recipe and we all moan because it takes literally all day for him to pull them off and he gets awfully grumpy while he is in preparation mode – some Christmas traditions never change! The kitchen looks like someone dumped a whole bag of flour under a fan and then turned it on high speed. But then we all reap the delectably delicious benefits afterwards because they are the best waffles on the planet and true Belgian ones at that.

We paint our nails with festive holiday colors or better yet, we go and grab a cheap manicure and pedicure; only about 100 dirhams ($10 total) in our local neighborhood. Now, that’s the spirit!

Flavors of Morocco

We try to create a bit of holiday fun that meshes with the country in which we live. Here in Morocco, strawberries are in season in December, which makes for the perfect sweet treat. Dipped in chocolate, these are heaven! If I am feeling ambitious, we try our hand at making our own Moroccan cookies. Anything drizzled in honey is right up my alley.

We also spend time with new friends, both Moroccan and expatriates like ourselves. We feel indebted to be in such a beautiful country with so much to see and do. Traveling in Morocco is practically a holiday gift in itself! And being global nomads, friends overseas become our family. We don’t have that luxury of being close to aunts, uncles, grandparents and childhood friends. We develop fast friendships with others who move internationally and can relate to our roaming lifestyle.

And we are grateful. Oh, so grateful. In this season of giving, no matter where we are, we are grateful.

In the end, I think that you could say we didn’t find the Christmas spirit here in Rabat, but instead, it found us. A non-traditional one at that, but those are perhaps the best kind because they are unique and quirky and lovingly homemade. We don’t have a cookie-cutter life, so our holidays won’t ever be flawlessly pristine. But we like it this way. And we had a whole network of elves, you could say, contributing to our wonderful first, perfectly imperfect Christmas in Morocco!

About the Author

Tara Fraiture is a dual British-American national. She now lives in Morocco with her cat, three kids and husband. In her free time, Tara enjoys belly dancing (badly) and impersonating accents (she’s a whiz, much to her children’s delight). Tara has happily lived in Cameroon, Egypt, Senegal, El Salvador, and Qatar. After many years of teaching French and Spanish, this global nomad found her passion (or perhaps her demise) in freelance journalism and she has been furiously writing ever since. And as she puts it, “writing is cheaper than therapy.” Humor is part of her mantra, as well as finding stories with heart and human connection.

Photos by Lucas Peters. Lucas is the principal photographer and author of the Moon Guidebooks: Morocco as well as Marrakesh and Beyond published by Hachette. He edited and contributed to the Our Morocco anthology and helps the travelers of Journey Beyond Travel experience the adventure of a lifetime. He lives in Tangier with his family.

FAQs

1. What can families expect when celebrating their first Christmas in Morocco?

Families celebrating their first Christmas in Morocco will experience a unique blend of traditional Moroccan culture and subtle Christmas festivities. While Christmas is not a national holiday, larger cities may have decorations, special menus, and events in expatriate communities, allowing families to enjoy a multicultural atmosphere.

2. Are there special Christmas events or activities for families in Morocco?

Yes, several hotels, restaurants, and expatriate communities in Morocco host special Christmas events and activities. Families can enjoy festive dinners, Christmas markets, live music, and entertainment tailored for both adults and children. Some resorts also offer Christmas-themed activities like storytelling, crafts, and themed parties.

3. What are the best places in Morocco to spend Christmas with family?

The best places to spend Christmas with family in Morocco include Marrakech, Casablanca, Rabat, and Essaouira. Each city offers a unique charm, from the vibrant markets and beautiful gardens of Marrakech to the relaxed coastal atmosphere of Essaouira, ensuring a memorable Christmas experience for families.

4. How is Christmas celebrated differently in Morocco compared to Western countries?

In Morocco, Christmas is celebrated more quietly, primarily within the Christian expatriate and local Christian communities. Unlike Western countries, public celebrations and extensive decorations are less common, and the emphasis is on blending personal traditions with the rich Moroccan cultural backdrop.

5. What traditional Moroccan foods can families enjoy during Christmas?

Families celebrating Christmas in Morocco can enjoy a fusion of traditional Moroccan cuisine and festive dishes. This may include tagine, couscous, pastilla, and a variety of grilled meats, as well as Moroccan pastries like baklava and makrout. International hotels often offer a mix of traditional Christmas meals and Moroccan specialties.

6. Are there family-friendly accommodations available for Christmas in Morocco?

Yes, Morocco offers a wide range of family-friendly accommodations for Christmas, including luxury hotels, riads, and resorts. Many hotels provide amenities such as swimming pools, playgrounds, and babysitting services, ensuring a comfortable stay for families. International hotel chains in major cities often host special Christmas events and offer festive decorations.

7. What activities can families do in Morocco during the Christmas season?

During the Christmas season, families in Morocco can engage in various activities such as exploring historical sites, visiting vibrant souks (markets), enjoying camel rides in the desert, and strolling through beautiful gardens. Cities like Marrakech offer attractions like the Jardin Majorelle and Bahia Palace, while coastal areas provide opportunities for beach outings.

8. Is it necessary to speak Arabic or French to celebrate Christmas in Morocco?

While knowledge of Arabic or French can enhance the experience, it is not necessary to speak these languages to celebrate Christmas in Morocco. Many Moroccan people, especially in tourist areas and larger cities, speak English and are accustomed to accommodating international visitors. Hotels and restaurants catering to expatriates often have multilingual staff, making it easier for families to navigate and enjoy their Christmas celebrations.

9. What cultural etiquettes should families be aware of when celebrating Christmas in Morocco?

When celebrating Christmas in Morocco, families should be mindful of the country’s predominantly Muslim culture. It’s respectful to dress modestly, especially when visiting religious or traditional areas. Public displays of religion outside of Christian communities should be done discreetly, and it’s courteous to ask permission before taking photographs of local people and to be respectful of local customs and traditions.

10. Can families find Christmas decorations and gifts in Morocco?

Yes, families can find Christmas decorations and gifts in Morocco, especially in larger cities and tourist areas. International hotels, supermarkets, and specialty stores often stock Christmas trees, ornaments, and festive decorations during the holiday season. Additionally, local markets and souks offer a variety of unique gifts and handcrafted items that make perfect presents.